by Dorothy Chan
Every top hotel in Las Vegas has an Asian noodle house, a dim sum street fare of five stars for Asian food, red all over lanterns, Year of the Dragon making love to the phoenix ambiance of birds of paradise flying over the hills of ancient China: secret lovers and concubines and firecrackers all bundled into a set dinner menu opening with Mandarin Orange Martinis, closing with a volcano of raspberry chocolate erupting over Asia on a plate, when we'd really prefer a dish of lychee, longan, dragon fruit, starfruit, cherries, just like our grandparents would, but alas that's an ocean away— an ocean away that wouldn't understand the Strip's overpriced udon in miso with flowers on top, because apparently this is Hawaii, and lo mein on a hot plate, and eating Cantonese lobster overlooking Greek and Roman statues surrounding a pool, or how Chinese restaurants on the Strip feature the number nine, when eight's really the lucky number, the way my grandmother in Kowloon orders eight dishes of dim sum, and certainly not seven, when I come visit, washing the teacups in hot water at the breakfast table, me with the entire dim sum sampler, and this is how we start our days an ocean away, of Hong Kongers reading newspapers over xiao long bao, over lotus leaf rice and taro buns, until it's lunchtime and Grandma buys me a bowl of noodles bigger than my head, we feast on tripe, we eat with our mouths, we eat with our eyes—the noodle houses of Hong Kong. |