by Tristan Coleshaw
i. Sweet coffee and potted palms
Hong Lim block wakes bean curd soft through the steam of morning's first rice, the steely beat of pak choi diced and gossip flavoured Hokkien sizzling sharp with galangal root
and splintered chicken feet chippings. As the hawkers call the start of day, a Singapore dawn spreads gin sling pink on door glass and twitching curtain backs. Merchants raise their shop guards, stack out
wads of temple money, sandalwood sticks and prayer beads. On the first floor, doctors sniff their herbs, grocers open up sugared drinks and unwrap today's fresh moon cakes. I
wander through the meat market, the stench of blood as strong as bleach, shivering ornate flesh stains adorned on butchers' aprons. From the balcony I spot the
Mah Jong players grouped at plastic tables, withered and torpid seniors rattling through a slow old age with symboled tiles and their daughters' flasks of cha in hand. By ten o'clock
the stalls are heaving, the poor flock here for three dollar dining, monks wander, trading braids for coins. Travelling whites come to break their breakfast rules: bacon and toast
swapped for dumplings and noodles, their cereal traditions cornflaked into bowls of coconut milk, curried in their foreignness. I order from Coffee Station and take
a seat by the plant beds, am tutted by locals five metres away for taking the smoking table. I watch the tai-tai pour the coffee jug to jug, add the sugar, a layer of condensed milk. I had asked
for black. She brings the chipped cup over through the roar of clucking Hakka, Malay, Telugu, Cantonese, Tamil, not a broken word of English. "Xie xie," I mumble, endeavouring Mandarin gratitude,
I should have known from the menu she was Teochew. She rolls her eyes at my faulty Chinese and leaves. I sit there, sweating in the Peranakan heat that steams the emerald leaves
of potted palms and rides on the spitting flames of vinegared woks. I breathe the fumes of pungent pans of shrimp broth and Peking duck ovens, my elbow by a piece of onion, dropped from some diner's clumsy chopsticks.
ii. Homeland
Sudden claps of monsoon thunder mute the food hall's neon buzz, a congee rain falls thick and tacky through the gaps between the levels. From New Bridge Road, old Zhìxin burrows through the sheltering shoppers,
he stops at Lok-Lok Tao Foo for a cheap feed and a cigarette. Taking the prize seat by the rails and overlooking the lawns, he vents a yawn and opens up his paper. 'Shandong farmers water their fields with hoses,' he reads aloud; news from home,
he scans the page for names of towns that as a boy, he'd known; he stares at paragraphs, skipping characters unremembered, unlearned. A keen breeze flicks the downpour at his dusty sandalled feet, soaking, quenching the dry cracks in his skin. He recalls now distant rains of Shandong past, followed by the rich mud scent of Spring.
iii. Speaker's Corner
Crowds gather in Hong Lim Park, the voice in Speaker's Corner billowing out from under pink umbrellas. Girls, Apollo handsome, link their arms and cheer the megaphoned
speech; boys stamp their shoes to Western pop beats, grinning porcelain pretty, their mothers in tow and revelling in their gaiety. Policemen line the borders plain-faced, watching gatherers swell
into a guava pink dot beneath the soup-warm drops of rain; they separate the flowering of the first male kiss and lead the culprits away. The hissing crowd, dismayed, dissolve their circle,
decree in loud letter-shaped battalions, L-O-V-E. In the tower block, Chinese throng the railings, jeering the loving mass below with fire and brimstone wording. I rise to go, pink dollars
in pocket, piety burning in my ears; I pass a female couple queueing for the toilets by the stairs, bowing to a Buddhist nun who hands them paper daisies, one who knows too well how hard enlightenment is won. |